15 Things to Know Before Visiting a Conflict Zone

From the editor: This list has been compiled by Matt Reichel, a co-founder of Inertia Network and specialist in conflict zone tourism and location management for documentary production. Matt has worked for over a decade in places ranging from North Korea, Afghanistan, and Yemen to the Congo. He is no stranger to risk mitigation and on-the-ground problem-solving in conflict zones, as well as planning and coordinating trips to these regions. He speaks five languages and is a graduate of Brown University with a degree in International Relations focused on Global Security.

--

Understanding Conflict Zone Travel

I am an advocate of conflict zone tourism but with a caveat. There is a responsible way and an irresponsible way to approach travel in our world’s most vulnerable, danger-prone communities.

When done consciously, travel to these regions can build bridges and foster greater understanding amongst people. This kind of travel has the potential to educate, empower, and show people from all corners a different side of the human experience. Responsible, community-centred tourism can also bring high-impact economic benefits to locals, as long as the communities affected are supportive and welcoming of tourism, and the tourists themselves are respectful and understanding of different customs, traditions and ways of living.

On the flip side, an irresponsible approach to conflict zone travel can result in consequences including increasing hostility between people, putting people’s lives (of tourists, guides and locals) at risk, and the alienation of already vulnerable communities.

It’s important to be aware of your behaviours when visiting conflict zones.

Here is a list of 15 things you should consider before travelling to a conflict zone that prioritizes responsibility while also equipping you with some suggestions to get the most out of your trip. Ultimately, I hope through this kind of exploration you will become a more aware, open-minded and conscious traveller. 

1. Your guides and fixers are your lifelines. Choose them wisely.

Whether it be Libya, Yemen, Somalia or Afghanistan, having a well-connected, experienced, and knowledgeable guide is absolutely crucial. This is not only for your safety but also for gaining access to people and truly learning about the place you are visiting.

Guides are your lifeline. They keep you protected, hidden, safe and mobile, which are all things that are important while visiting conflict zones-- be it for journalism or personal interest purposes. Therefore, making sure to coordinate your trip with a reputable and recommended fixer is essential.

Once you have found a fixer, I suggest having a real phone conversation with him/her before you make a decision on your trip. This provides you with a mutual opportunity to feel each other out and discuss details. You should also be crystal clear with the purpose of your trip, your interests and where you want to go, as well as your general comfort level. This will help your guide plan and know if you are a good fit or not for their services. Always ask for references and do not be afraid to call those contacts for an honest conversation.

2. Understand the fine print on your travel insurance.

Most travel insurance plans have fine print in the contract that states your policy is void if you travel to a country or region with a government-issued travel warning against it. While they may say they cover a place like Yemen or Afghanistan upfront, once you check out the exclusion clauses you’ll find a clear denial of services for places with travel warnings.

This means you will need a special coverage plan for travelling to these countries. These types of plans are generally only available from specialized insurance providers like Battleface and Cigna (and First Allied if they restart their individual services again).

These plans generally come with expensive optional add-ons like kidnapping and ransom insurance. Depending on where you are going and what you will be doing, you may want to consider these options.

3. Insurance is different from evacuation and assistance.

There’s a common misconception that having travellers insurance means the insurance company will swoop in and rescue you if something goes wrong. This is simply not the case. Insurance is financial-- they will reimburse you for expenses covered under your policy, minus any exclusions and co-pays.

Generally speaking, your greatest actual risk while travelling in a conflict zone is much like anywhere else-- medical. This includes injuries, disease, diarrhea, or anything that would lead to hospitalization and or the need for a medivac. Medical issues may be very complicated in conflict zones due to lack of infrastructure, danger in transportation, remoteness, etc, so you should do some research to understand your evacuation and hospitalization options.

Global Rescue is an example of a membership-based company that specializes in high-risk and remote region medical evacuations. Take a look at their services. They will not bail you out of a war zone like Seal Team 6, but as soon as you reach somewhere more stable, they can help to organize an evac more easily. I like their slogan: “The travel insurance you are looking for isn’t insurance.” In many cases, they’re right.

4. Know your best emergency exit points.

In case of an emergency or a need for evacuation, you should be aware of your easiest exit point. It may not be the closest to where you are. For example, if you have an issue in Yemen, one of the best cities you can reach is Cairo. It is not the closest in location, but with flight availability, lack of visa or political restrictions, along with decent infrastructure and onward connections, Cairo is the best choice.

Knowing optimal exit points such as airports, flight routes, border posts, road networks, etc is a smart idea when travelling in conflict zones. Know your options for transportation, permits, visas and how easily and quickly these things can be arranged.

5. Cameras may create unwanted attention or lead to detention.

Photography can be tricky anywhere in the world, and this is especially true in conflict zones. From both cultural and political perspectives, you need to be aware of the customs, rules and sensitivities of photography in the country you are visiting.

For example, trying to photograph women without the permission of a male guardian in a country like Yemen or Afghanistan can create major conflict with locals, or a rock being thrown at your head, whichever comes first. Likewise, taking photos of political graffiti in Iraq can result in police detention and questioning.

Do not even think about photographing on-duty soldiers, military bases, airports and security installations in most if not all conflict zones. Or if you do, be super discrete. Shooting from the waist has helped in the more undercover journalistic approach to photography. You may also want to consider shooting in silent mode, which keeps the shutter click silent on mirrorless cameras.

Please do not thrust your camera into people’s faces. As a general rule of thumb, it is recommended to always ask your fixer/guide what is okay to photograph, when you can pull out your camera, and what cultural sensitivities exist around photography. You can also ask yourself-- you don’t necessarily need words to ask about photography. Just point at your camera and see the response you get. You’ll know pretty quickly how welcomed it is.

6. Think about the ethics and financial implications of your trip on local communities.

Travel has the potential to build bridges and help connect, engage and economically support communities in places that need support the most. However, travel-- especially to conflict zones-- can also further isolate, otherize and stigmatize people who already live with trauma.

The way you approach this kind of travel, your attitude, your awareness of where your money is spent, how your presence contributes to communities, and how your trip may impact locals is crucial. Travel is a give-and-take, and I believe conscious travellers should give more than they receive.

The reward of travel to conflict zones is deeply personal. It is not in bragging rights with friends or Instagram photos. Rather, the journey allows for a  shared deep, emotional experience with other human beings, a better awareness of the nuances of conflict and trauma, and a sharpened sense of compassion, empathy and self-reflection. You learn as much about other places and people as you do about yourself and your values.

Staying in homestays, contributing directly to communities, being a curious yet open-minded and kind ambassador when visiting conflict zones is important to building trust.

Treat people with kindness. Take time to get to know them, listen to their stories, and embrace their vulnerability. Create a space for locals to share with you, and embrace learning from them. Politely eat what is offered to you, but also know when to compassionately turn down an offer that is being made out of custom instead of sincerity.

Come prepared with small monetary and non-monetary gifts-- genuine sentiments that can go a long way for these communities. Carrying envelopes and cards can be helpful to make cash gestures more discreet, private and meaningful.

7. Costs are high for a reason.

Travel costs are high because of high levels of corruption, poor infrastructure, low domestic production capabilities, and a dependency on costly imported goods. Petrol is expensive and scarce, in some cases requiring queueing for hours. Everything is expensive - food products beyond locally grown staples, car hires and travel permits, connections.

Having friends in high places is key to your access in many conflict zones, and these contacts do not come free. Your guides and fixers have cultivated a network of politicians, military, police and security, and each of these groups will collect fees. Permissions and paperwork come at a cost as conflict zones are bureaucratic.

For the most part, locals are not travelling like you. They are not eating the meals you eat, they do not have your private transport, and they do not need the same paperwork or connections. These are luxuries, and even if you’re staying in basic hotels with squat toilets and no hot water, things are not cheap.

If you’re staying in an area with a heavier international aid organization or UN presence, expect costs to be even higher, since hotels and restaurants have established full businesses in charging high rates to international organization employees flush with foreign cash.

Be prepared to pay costs that may seem unreasonable to you at first, but then think about all the things I have listed and how difficult these are to procure.

8. Aggression almost always gets you nowhere.

Frustrating situations arise in all kinds of travel, and frustrations may easily become amplified in conflict zones. Corrupt police, last-minute schedule changes, arbitrary detainments, and political problems can all derail your plans.

When faced with these kinds of situations, remember that aggression generally gets you nowhere. Instead, your best bet is to adopt a softer approach-- be polite, yet firm. Friendliness normally helps. Ask to speak to the highest-ranking officer. Keep your embassy’s contact number handy, and do not be afraid to call it, even though in many cases they will not be of much help.

The key is to find common ground and move towards acceptable solutions. And whatever you do, just do not lose your cool.

9. Blend in.

Blending into your surroundings is a good way to keep you safe in conflict zones. You are never going to blend in fully, but this is not an expectation. Wearing local clothing where appropriate, following the behaviour of locals, and not drawing too much attention to yourself is a good idea. Having an acute awareness of your own presence is an important part of staying safe.

10. On transportation, travel and armed security.

When it comes to transportation, newer or more expensive-looking cars can be problematic and make you a target, whereas a dusty, decal-covered car blends right in. I always choose the latter. Likewise, multiple vehicle caravans and visible security also draw too much attention. These things scream out “high-value person” -- be it a foreigner or local politician. This is not something you would like to get mistaken for in a country like Afghanistan or Somalia.

In particularly dicey places, consider using a scout-and-tail vehicle instead. When travelling between cities overland in Afghanistan I normally send a locally-driven scout car 30 minutes ahead of the group. The scout reports back any roadblocks, issues or signs of danger.

Likewise, a tail could be useful if you need an escape car in a more actively volatile region. In places where road security is problematic, I generally time inter-city drives in the early morning, aiming to pass through difficult areas around sunrise. This is the safest time to travel since the roads are quiet and most people are still asleep. I never drive between cities at night in Afghanistan.

I avoid travelling with an armed escort for the same reason, although some of my fixers and guides have more discreetly carried weapons. However, there are exceptions in parts of Yemen and Somalia especially, where guns are common.

Carry a local-looking bag for your camera, and only take it out when it’s safe to do so.

When it comes to accommodation-- Western name-brand hotels, especially those frequented by local politicians and officials can be targets. I generally suggest staying in local, lower-key guesthouses or hotels with a good security policy or private accommodations without too much visibility to neighbours. Ask your guide for recommendations.

11. Scope out where you are staying in case you need to exit quickly.

Ever since the 2018 Intercontinental Hotel Attack in Kabul, I have always found it smart to scope out my accommodations for an emergency exit plan as soon as I arrive.

Know where all the exits are, know how to open your windows and come up with your best emergency plan in case something dangerous were to happen. Keep your passport and communication device close to you at all times with emergency numbers saved. Know how to get to an airport or border if needed.

12. Keep up to date on security briefings and reports.

Security briefings through local security, NGO and embassy and foreign correspondent networks are quite accessible.

Keep abreast of the situation in each region of the country you are visiting. Take note of any holidays, elections, or political meetings as these may spur violence.

Considering joining Facebook groups for residents in these countries to get a better feel of the situation on the ground. Check in with your guide regularly before your trip and be open-minded to changing your plans if there is a security situation.

13. Carry an emergency communication device.

Being able to communicate with others can be a lifesaver. I always recommend purchasing a local SIM card with internet access in the country you are visiting. Ask your guide to arrange this for you before you arrive.

Sometimes this is not possible, or you may be a place with little to no connectivity. In these cases, I always carry an inReach. This is a small satellite communication device that can send text messages and emails from absolutely anywhere. It can also send out an SOS beacon that tracks your location. Besides the device, you will need an account with Garmin --sign up for a monthly plan, and a direct device-to-sky connection, as it only works outdoors

14. Do not post your itinerary publically and have reliable emergency contacts.

Travelling to conflict zones requires special precautions when it comes to other people knowing where and when you will be at certain places.

As a rule of thumb, you never want to tag your live location or be too specific with where you are to strangers.  Never post your location on social media or location tag your stories. When leading trips in Afghanistan and Yemen, I always tell people not to post stories until at least 3 days after we have left a region. It is an even better idea to just wait until you are out of the country to post.

Likewise, do not post copies of your schedule or itinerary online, as you do not know who may be able to find it and target you. This is something my fixers have stressed for years.

The easiest way to stay safe in conflict zones is to keep your location unpredictable. This means no daily routines in public.

At the same time, you definitely want to line up emergency contacts with copies of your itinerary. You may also want to consider registering your travels with your embassy. Of course, carry several photocopies of your passport as well.

15. Be culturally, politically and physically aware of where you are going.

Knowledge is power. This is easily the most important safety precaution for travelling to a conflict zone. Being aware of a country’s issues, history, conflicts, culture and religion will not only allow you to blend in more and understand nuances but also help you fundamentally understand risks and how your behaviour can either mitigate or increase them.

Read books, watch documentaries, and talk to others who have experience in the field. Ask your guide every question you have on your mind. Not only will you be safer and more prepared for any challenges that come your way, but you will also be ready for a learning experience, creating human connections, and what will likely be one of the most enriching journeys of your lifetime.

RELATED ARTICLES