Safety Guide to Yemen
Is it safe to travel to Yemen?
Yemen is a diverse and stunningly beautiful country— green mountains, deserts, mud-brick villages, ancient ruins, and centuries-old traditions seep out of every street corner throughout this incredible country. But can you really travel there safely? That’s one of the first questions on everyone’s mind when considering a trip to the country, and for good reason.
Yemen has been embroiled in a civil war since 2015, with regional actors and non-state actors very much part of the problem. The country has had a significant Al Qaeda presence, in fact, in 2015 Al Qaeda took and held the southern port city of Al Mukalla for 9 months. Al Qaeda in the Arabian Peninsula (AQAP) is also responsible for several deadly acts of violence on tourists in Yemen.
A suicide bomber killed eight Spanish tourists and their two Yemeni drivers in Marib in July 2007. In 2008, Al-Qaeda militants opened fire on a convoy of tourists in Wadi Doan in the Hadhramaut, killing two Belgian tourists and two Yemenis— the tourists' driver and their guide. In March 2009, four South Korean tourists and their local Yemeni guide were killed just outside Shibam.
Yemen has clearly had problems assuring the safety and security of tourists, and terrorist groups have operated and do continue to operate in Yemen. Every Western government has strong travel warnings in place against travel to Yemen, and few insurance companies would cover your visit, let alone help with a possible extraction. So is it completely bonkers to consider visiting the country?
Not exactly.
While tourist visits are not exactly normal for the time being, with the exception of the semi-autonomous island of Socotra, travel to some regions within Yemen is possible with the help of a great team on the ground. I absolutely love working in Yemen, travelling in Yemen and spending time listening to people’s stories in Yemen.
A crucial element to any visit to Yemen is having a guide and fixing team who know what they are doing, are extremely well-connected, know the local police and military in each region you visit and have contingency plans in case things do not go as planned.
I’ve visited Yemen 3 times over the last 12 months and can speak a bit about the safety and security over there, how to help stay safe, and where is generally okay to go. Please keep in mind, this article is based on my personal experiences, not some form of official advice or seal of approval.
Interested in visiting Yemen with a local guide?
Work only with experienced and trusted local fixers, guides and drivers
First off, having an experienced, trustworthy and well-connected local fixing team is essential for travel in Mainland Yemen. Full stop.
These are the people who will be responsible for your safety and security, accommodation, transport, permits, paperwork, and visa. They are your first line of defence in the country.
If things go to hell, these are the people you must rely on to help you and protect you-- don’t expect a foreign government to send some rescue squad to bust you out of a tricky situation in Yemen.
And don’t count on your insurance and rescue companies-- being in a country with a pretty strong travel warning negates most of your coverage and even if it doesn’t, you can expect significant delays. Remember, even if your policy is valid, insurance is about financial reimbursement, not actually rescuing you should something happen.
I don’t have anything but positive things to say about my fixing team in Yemen. Kais Al-Qalisi and Wagdi Alawdi are true professionals, and beyond that, they have treated me like family. I feel safe, engaged and well cared for. Kais is a pleasure to talk with, explore his country with and learn from. He’s worked in tourism, filmmaking and journalism for the past eighteen years, so his network and experience are unmatched.
Kais phones the local police and military generals three times daily to assess the security situation according to our travel itinerary and would make changes at the drop of a hat if he sensed anything was risky or wrong.
We mostly slept in private apartments, which ensure privacy and security away from hotels, and at times we had an additional team member for security in a separate lead car. After having also done a good amount of travelling in Afghanistan, I can say his actions were highly professional, well-planned, and secure.
I also want to warn people about another agent named Abdulhameed from a company called Easy Yemen. I have met now four people who have travelled with his company and have extremely negative experiences. He is notorious for creating forged documents, getting people into trouble, lying, passing on clients to others who are untrustworthy, and hiring drivers who physically molest women. I have personally had to help two separate groups of his clients in Yemen get away from him and this is not a country you want to have these kinds of problems in. The reviews are all over the internet.
Try to blend in (even a little bit helps)
Wearing local clothing is an important part of keeping a low profile in Yemen. For women, it’s even more important to follow Yemeni dress code. This means black abaya (body-covering loose black robe) and niqab (full face veil with only the eyes visible). Regardless of your personal opinion on the abaya and niqab, this is how women in southern Yemen dress, and if you’re not prepared to follow suit I’d strongly re-think visiting Yemen during this time.
As I was to learn from the women travelling with me, the zipper abayas offer a lot more “options” than the ones with snaps or buttons (zippers mean clothes underneath are kind of optional, since the Abaya is essentially a onesie, but snaps and buttons leave gaping holes and you’ll have to wear a full outfit underneath).
Abayas cost around 10,000 to 20,000 Rial depending on design and quality and niqabs cost around 2,000 to 3,000 or so. You may see several types of niqabs on display in the abaya shops-- some of the extra thin ones or mesh ones do not actually cover your face, rather they are for “indoor use with your husband” only I’ve been told. So, yeah, ladies, if you don’t want to be walking around town wearing these sexy bedroom only niqabs, make sure your face is not visible through the niqab in a mirror in the shop.
For men-- Yemeni men typically wear a fouta, this is a cloth man-skirt. They are not too hard to tie once you get the hang of it from a local and they come in all sorts of colours and patterns. Most are locally made and the designs are pretty cool.
I’ve been using mine as a light blanket these days, but it was easy enough to get around in it throughout Yemen. Additionally, many men will also wear a kind of headscarf as well and locals can teach you how to tie it. Foutas tend to cost between 9,000 and 15,000 Rial, while male head scarves cost between 2,000 and 4,000 Rial.
Organize your communications
For trips to “high-risk” destinations, I normally make sure to do two things immediately before and during my travels. First, I make sure I have a contact point back home who knows generally where I am and can relay information if need be, and second, I make sure to have a way to communicate with someone at all times.
Purchasing a local SIM card is not difficult in Yemen, and most places have pretty good cell connectivity, including internet access across the mobile network. However, it can take some time for your Yemeni SIM to be activated (a day or two) and not all foreign SIMs work on the Yemeni network (but many, perhaps surprisingly, do work without a problem). Having a local SIM is a great idea and an affordable way to stay in touch. Always be sure to have the numbers of your local contacts on your phone as well.
Another device I always carry on these kinds of trips is my Garmin InReach+. This is a satellite communicator and can send text messages, emails and Facebook messages from anywhere outdoors. All you need is a clear line from the device to the sky and this thing works. While I’ve never had to use it for safety purposes in a “high-risk” country, it’s definitely a comfort to have with you. And be sure to keep this thing in your day pack or on your belt, not stashed away in your luggage somewhere.
Understand regional security and border zones
Knowing which parts of the country are safe for travel plays an important role in your travels to Yemen. Getting regular safety and security reports from the ground in Yemen is extremely valuable— as these reports can pull sources from the Yemeni police, local contacts, the UAE and Saudi military forces, etc.
At the time of wiring (2021) the following regions were stable and had a favourable security situation:
Al Mahrah Governorate— This region bordering Oman is one of the safest and most stable in Mainland Yemen. Two border posts are open between Al Mahrah and Oman, the primary entry/exit point at Sarfayt, and a secondary exit-only point in the Empty Quarter Desert in the village of Shehn. The regional capital of Al Ghaydah is quite safe, but general precautions should be followed.
Hadhramaut Governorate— The Hadhramaut is mostly safe with some possible exceptions, as some of the more remote regions within Hadhramaut should be fully investigated and confirmed before travel; however, areas like Tarim, Seiyun, Shibam, Wadi Doan, and Al Mukalla are generally okay. Be sure to check the situation in Al Mukalla, Shibam and Wadi Doan before travel).
Socotra Island— Socotra is a semi-autonomous island several hundred kilometres off the coast of Mainland Yemen. Socotra is very safe and secure, and there is a significant UAE and Saudi military and humanitarian aid presence on the island.
Aden— the city itself has been relatively secure, given it is the de facto capital of the Southern Transitional Council government. However, travel outside of the city is not recommended in any direction. Therefore, Aden may only be visited safely by flying in and out.
A quick note about Houthi territory— since the war broke out, the Houthi rebel movement controls much of northern Yemen, including Sana’a, Ta’iz, and Ibb. Their territory is considered as a military operational zone, and unless you receive explicit written permission from the Houthis, they do not welcome tourists within Houthi controlled zones.
Attempting to sneak into Sana’a or anywhere else in their territory is foolish, and if you’re caught (and there’s a good chance you’d be caught), you may face significant and intense interrogation, or worse. Don’t try it.
It’s also worth mentioning that these days AQAP has a presence largely concentrated in Abyan and Al Bayda’, as well as some remote parts of southwestern Marib and Shabwah Governorates. These areas should definitely be avoided.
Have an emergency extraction plan should things go awry
So what happens when you have to get out of Yemen? With no embassies currently operational in the country, what happens if you lose your passport (hint: guard it carefully)? There are a lot of things to consider when visiting Yemen, and knowing how to get out is very important.
First off, know the borders and make sure you have a double-entry or multiple-entry Omani visa (most nationalities can get this online). The borders at Sarfayt and Shehn are both open to exit Yemen and enter Oman (when Oman is not COVID closed) and are very straightforward.
The airports in Seiyun and Aden are also viable exit points, as there are nearly ten international flights to Cairo, Egypt per week. Having a contact in Oman who can pick you up form the border, or in Cairo to help with tickets and transport is definitely useful.
Secondly, if you qualify for it, it’s not a bad idea to carry a second or duplicate passport. And if you do, keep it separate from your normal passport. If you’re a dual citizen, that’s definitely a plus, as you can already carry multiple passports, which is something I do.
If you are not a dual citizen (or even if you are— I typically carry 3-4 valid passports at a time), depending on your country of nationality you may be able to apply for a duplicate passport to carry with you in case of an emergency.
I know Canadians can do this if the purpose of travel is work-related, and the duplicate passport is valid for only 2 years (mine has a note in it that it cannot be extended). Americans can get duplicate passports upon application quite easily, and they are valid for 4 years. Many EU nationals are also able to get duplicate passports as well.
