Where to Swim With Humpback Whales (2024): Tonga vs French Polynesia
A woman swimming with a humpback whale in Rurutu, French Polynesia
Where to Swim With Humpback Whales
Swimming with humpback whales is magical. They are sentient, playful, and imaginative — it’s perhaps the most amazing oceanic experience I have had the fortune to experience. But before you book a long flight and expensive trip, it’s crucial to research where to swim with humpback whales. Not just for the sake of your experience but also to understand where regulations are best implemented for the safety and comfort of the whales themselves.
This will most commonly come down between Tonga and French Polynesia since they both allow for regulated whale swimming. Having spent significant time there over the last six years, there are certainly pros and cons for each.
In this guide, I will break down the facts so you can better decide which destination is the right one for you to experience these magical marine mammals.
Looking to Swim with Humpbacks?
French Polynesia— Rurutu & Mo’Orea
Better known for its resorts, palm-fringed beaches and honeymooning couples, French Polynesia is also a prime destination for migrating humpback whales between August and November. It comprises 121 geographically dispersed islands and atolls, but we are looking specifically at Moorea and the tiny island of Rurutu.
RURUTU
Rurutu is a stand-alone island with a population of fewer than 2,500 people. It is one of the most traditional islands in French Polynesia, as most people speak Rurutuan, farm taro, vegetables, and line fish for a living. By the way, taro is a tuber and it’s the most consumed ingredient in the local cuisine.
Pros:
Rurutu has been a primary whale breeding favourite for centuries since it is not surrounded by a motu (lagoon); instead, it’s blessed by a fringing reef. Therefore, it attracts pregnant mothers and other adult whales as a safe place to give birth and mate. The water is colder, but the clearest I’ve experienced in the last six years. There are only 4 boats that are certified to carry tourists, so unlike Vava’u, Moorea, Tahiti and other islands, swarms of tourists are not a problem in sleepy Rurutu. September, October and into November are particularly good months to go whale swimming as the season starts later and ends later here due to the islands’ more southerly position. If you are looking for the best experience swimming with humpbacks, Rurutu is our top pick.
Cons:
Rurutu does not have a lot to do besides whale swimming. As the island is also surrounded by rocky cliffs and is not as suitable for beach-going tourists, You will not find the same stunning bungalows or beaches that can be found on the other islands. Even if you're only visiting for a week and focusing your trip on swimming with whales, you'll find plenty to keep you entertained on the island. Between your days out on the water and the rest you'll need after spending all day swimming with whales, there's more than enough to fill your time and enrich your stay.
Stunning view of Rurutu Island in French Polynesia.
Men walking along the Rurutu beach in French Polynesia.
MO’OREA
Moorea is a popular tourist island that is just a short ferry ride from the main island of Tahiti. While whale swims are far from the only draw, they are common day trips for visitors.
Pros:
The benefit of whale swimming in Moorea is crystal clear water, and there are a ton of other activities that you can do - snorkel with sharks and rays, look for dolphins and pilot whales, go on day hikes, explore beaches, and ride around the island on a bicycle or motorcycle. If you’re looking for just one island to experience it all in Polynesia, Mo’orea will be a solid choice.
Cons:
The downside is the number of tourists in the water. Unlike in Tonga, where other whale-watching boats must wait their turn before letting tourists off into the water, in Moorea and Tahiti, there are no regulations in this regard, so you may end up with 40 tourists bobbing in the water around a whale, which can make for a less-than-ideal experience, to say the least.
A freediver playing with a humpback whale in French Polynesia.
Tonga— Vava’U
The Vava’u archipelago in northern Tonga is perhaps the most famous place in the world for swimming with humpback whales— and for good reason. The islands form a natural nursery for migrating humpback whales between July and November, allowing them to raise their calves in peace. These calm waters attract enough whales to produce large heat runs, where adults compete for mating rights with females in heat.
Whales are the economy here; outside of aquatic activities and beaches, there is little to do here. Like the rest of Tonga, it’s illegal for businesses to operate on Sundays, so everything shuts down completely.
Pros:
The major benefit to Vava’u, Tonga, is that government regulations only allow five people to be in the water simultaneously with the whales. So, while boats have to line up to get into the water, which can take time and feel a bit inauthentic, this is still preferable to dumping tons of tourists in the water, like in Moorea, Tahiti, and Mauritius. Boats generally will “switch” after 40 minutes to 1 hour of swimming, provided the whales want to stick around.
Cons:
The downside is the pure economy of whale swimming tourism—as one of the most well-known destinations for this activity, Vava’u has nearly 50 whale-watching boats, all jostling for position with whales. In recent years, the number of whales visiting Vava’u has declined, as has water clarity, further increasing pressure on boat captains to deliver results. Captains have resorted to radioing each other to notify other captains of whale sightings and allow them to “get in line” to let their visitors swim.
Other islands to consider in Tonga besides Vava’u are Ha’apai and Tongatapu. While these islands do not necessarily have the same allure as Vavau’s tropical lagoons and primary whale swimming industry, they also attract whales and have far fewer whale-watching boats.
A free-diver swims with humpback whales in the crystal-clear waters of Rurutu, French Polynesia
Other Destinations Worth Considering
AUSTRALIA: Hervey Bay (July to mid-September)
Hervey Bay is a world-renowned whale-watching destination located off the coast of Queensland, where in-water interactions are allowed. It's advisable to plan your visit for the earlier part of the whale-watching season, which spans from July to mid-September. During this period, the absence of calves allows for swimming activities. Later in the season, when calves are more likely to be present, swimming is restricted to ensure their protection.
Pros:
Australia has strict guidelines and regulations to ensure the safety of both whales and swimmers, making it a sustainable ecotourism. These experiences are also doable, as quick day excursions and strict safety precautions make this experience more accessible to inexperienced swimmers. The proximity to the Great Barrier Reef also offers opportunities to combine whale watching with other incredible marine experiences.
Cons:
The flip side to the regulations is that the experiences are more restricted. Many boats will not let you free dive with the whales and, instead, have you holding onto a tethered rope for short periods. This puts the experience firmly in the control of the whale to decide whether or not to interact. That being said, our experience is that humpbacks generally want to interact more when they see that you are a competent swimmer in the water.
Whale swimming experiences are also not guaranteed, as entering the water is dependent on water conditions, and participants are not permitted to get in the water with the whales if calves are present. If you are in the neighborhood and are looking for a day trip experience, these tours can be great, but if you are looking for a dedicated humpback whale swimming experience, this would not be our top choice.
A freediver watches a mother whale and her calf underwater in French Polynesia.
Special Training
Whale swimming is typically a snorkeling experience. No crazy gear is required besides your mask and fins. In fact, the bubbles from scuba gear actually spook them. As long as you are comfortable swimming in the water, this experience is 100% accessible.
Conclusion
Personally, speaking as somebody who goes to these islands to swim with whales, I believe there is more value to be had in going to the less-visited islands, Rurutu in particular. One of the largest drawbacks to whale swimming comes from the sheer number of tourists vying for the chance to swim and the lack of proper regulations in place to protect the whales.
With only four boats available on Rurutu, there will never be too many people in the water at a time. However, as they lack regulation to protect from overtourism, this is a future risk as more people discover Rurutu.
Whale swimming aside, for those looking to get the most out of their experience, I highly recommend that you try to immerse yourself in Polynesian culture and connect with the locals. As stewards of the ocean, we can take inspiration from them in how we care for our planet and the majestic animals we are surrounded by. The ocean is a home; let’s be sure we keep it that way.
Let me know your thoughts in the comments down below where to swim with humpback whales is better based on your experience.
